Frankfurt Christmas Markets ~ A Magical Trip on a Budget that Feels Like Anything But!

If you follow either CherrySue or Stone Travel on social media you’ll have seen that our annual Christmas Markets trip brought us to Frankfurt this year. In true Stone Travel style, I'm here to tell you exactly how much we paid, what we thought of it and how you can visit too! 

Getting there:

We opted for a Ryanair flight to Frankfurt Hahn as they had scheduled flights at the times we wanted; costing €44.86pp including all taxes and charges for the 1 hour 40 minute flight it also suited our budget. Just be aware Frankfurt Hahn is located 120km outside Frankfurt. Depending on the time of your flight you can either catch a train or a bus. 

As we arrived late on Friday night the only option for us was a Flibco bus. I had pre-purchased our tickets online costing €30pp return including insurance. Unfortunately a flight from Tangier arrived into the airport at the same time as our flight so we were delayed getting through passport control. We got to the bus stop with 10 minutes to spare to find they had resold our tickets and about 30 others that were on our flight so we had to wait over an hour for the next bus! Customer service was shocking and the rep was downright rude to anyone who questioned her. The journey time to Frankfurt am Main is 1 hour 45 minutes but on our return journey our driver did it in 1 hour 20 minutes.

Aer Lingus fly Dublin-Frankfurt main airport located just 10 minutes outside Frankfurt. While the flights were over €100pp extra at the time we were booking I think we might be flying Aer Lingus next time! 

Where to stay in Frankfurt:

It’s always a bit of a nightmare trying to find a decent central hotel when trying to stick to a budget so I usually trawl the hotel comparison sites first. That’s where I found Hotel Excelsior a 3* hotel located directly across the road from the train station in the financial district of Frankfurt am Main. The Flibco bus arrives and departs a mere 2 minute walk from the hotel.

Rooms are basic but spotless; we were given a room with a set of bunk beds and two very comfortable single beds. While the rooms and hotel itself are dated it really doesn’t take away from the comfort of your stay as they offer a host of free extras such as free Wi-Fi, free drinks and snacks available in reception all day, free buffet breakfast and a free mini bar in every room that’s restocked daily (I know!). 

Breakfast is served from 5am-11am in a large restaurant on the ground floor. They’ve a wide variety of food on offer as they take influence from breakfasts around the world. You’ve a choice of cereals, breads, crepes, eggs, cold meats, cheeses, smoked salmon, fresh fruit, yoghurts even soup, vegetable noodles or sweet & sour veg with boiled rice so you’re sure to find something you like to fill you up before hitting the markets. We paid €67.45pp for 2 nights B&B; I booked directly with the hotel through their website as they had the best price.

What are the Frankfurt Christmas Markets like?

Dating as far back as 1393 Frankfurt has the oldest Christmas Markets in Germany not only that, they also have the tallest Christmas tree. There are a few different markets dotted around the city: Römerberg, St Paul's Square, Mainkai (Main Quay), Hauptwache and Friedrich-Stoltze-Square.

The main market is Römerberg; this is where the massive Christmas tree is on display, if you can try to make it there on a Wednesday or Saturday at 6pm as they have live Christmas music from the balcony of St Nicolas’ Church. The sights, smells and sounds as you enter Römerberg after dark take your breath away. Rows and rows of wooden stalls beautifully lit with thousands of tiny white lights, a Christmas tree towering above the square, the sound of Christmas music being played by the oversized carousel, the smells of glühwein, cinnamon and gingerbread all with a backdrop of the iconic German traditional half timber buildings instantly gives you that warm fuzzy Christmassy feeling.

In other Cities we’ve been to the same stalls are usually repeated numerous times around the market. Frankfurt is the first market we’ve been to that we actually bought a lot of stuff as the market stalls sell a variety of beautiful and useful products at good prices. We always choose the last weekend in November to visit the Christmas Markets as this is usually the first weekend they open so they’re not that busy, Frankfurt however is the exception as it’s the most visited market in Europe, it’s always busy. 

There is so much delicious food to choose from as you peruse the markets, for lunch Sue decided on a bowl of chilli & I chose a bowl of beef goulash both came with fresh crusty bread for dipping and were priced at just €5 each. For dinner we needed a sit down as we were on our feet most of the day so we chose one of the many restaurants with outdoor seating around the old square. While they didn’t have heaters they did have blankets for our knees, 4 large beers and 2 pizzas cost us just over €33. 

Any Stone Travel tips?

If you’re feeling the cold and/or just want a sit down I’d highly recommend a visit to Galeria Kaufhof, it’s a huge department store right beside Hauptwache market. I bought my most prized possessions of the whole trip there, two huge nutcrackers for a bargain price of just €12.99 each(!). 

Not only is it great for a spot of shopping the rooftop bar & restaurant on the 7th floor is the perfect place to sit and recharge your batteries while enjoying a spectacular view of Frankfurt’s skyline. The glühwein is actually cheaper than in the market at €2.50 a mug, or you can opt for Prosecco at €2 a glass. They’ve heaters and a DJ on the decks. Pizzas start at €7, while warm ham & cheese pretzels are a mere €2. What’s not to love?! 

Have you been to Frankfurt Christmas Markets? What did we miss that we need to do next time?

Were you following along on Snapchat? Anything you loved or anything you'd like to see more of? We're taking notes before we fly out to Highclere Castle this month for the Downton Abbey Christmas Fair (Eep!)

Carefree Cork ~ A Wonderful Weekend Family Escape

This past weekend saw us pack up Mammy Van for another road trip, this time to Cork, arguably the most relaxed and carefree County in Ireland. We’ve been many times over the years (a simple word search on the left there will show you that) It’s a place that I’m sure we’ll be visiting for many more years to come as there’s simply so much to see and do in the Rebel County.

Our Cork Adventures ~ The Conclusion in Fabulous Clonakilty & Castletownbere!

To conclude Our Cork Adventures I’ll tell you about four other great places to visit on a budget while in West Cork. After a run around playing with the kids that lived in the field beside our holiday home in Clonakilty we set off for the day to Kinsale. I say kids as they were literally kids, baby goats! They tried their best to eat my daughters top, much to her disgust but uproarious laughter from the her brothers and sister. 

Charles Fort ~ Kinsale

It’s a relatively short drive of 45 minutes to the harbour town of Kinsale from Clonakilty. We decided to visit Charles Fort as my husband is a military history nut. Charles Fort is located in Summer Cove, Kinsale. Construction began in 1677 & took 5 years to complete during the reign of King Charles II. The Fort was designed in a star shape by Sir William Robinson to resist attack by cannon; he also designed the Royal Hospital Kilmainham. Charles Fort remained occupied by the British Forces until 1921 when it was signed over to the Irish during the Anglo-Irish Treaty but before they left they ensured they burnt nearly every building within the Fort. 

It is now operated by the OPW; they have done great work in reconstructing parts of the buildings. There are lots of grassed areas for children to run about & have fun; we spent ages exploring the old buildings. The views are amazing from all around the Fort but it can get quite windy even on a summer’s day, we were glad to warm up with a hot chocolate in the onsite cafe. Admission is Adult €4, Child €2, Family €10 or if you go on the first Wednesday of the month admission is free as with all OPW run heritage sites with the only exception of Muckross.  

Glenview Gardens ~ Enniskean

When we are staying in Ireland, I sometimes like to take a drive just to see what we’ll find by following the brown tourism signs; it was on one of these meanders around Cork that we found a hidden gem. Glenview Gardens in Enniskean, a 20 minute drive from Clonakilty, home to Irelands only Hobbit House. It’s a 3 acre garden lovingly grown over 25 years by David & Mary Tanner on West Cork’s Garden Trail. There are lots of mini gardens within Glenview such as a Japanese garden, bog garden & white garden there’s even a canal & pond. 

Our children loved the birds in the aviary; they have about 40 birds of differing breeds. We spent over an hour having a ramble around. I didn’t tell the children about the Hobbit house, I just let them stumble across it themselves. They were delighted with it, even more so when they realised you could go inside to explore the little two bedroom house. Tea rooms are located at the back of the garden with an honesty box to pay, very quaint & very Irish! Admission is Adults €5 & Children €2 with no discounted family tickets available.  

Castletownbere ~ West Cork

We’ve family in Castletown-Bearhaven so a visit is a must every time we’re in Cork. If you haven’t been I’d highly recommend a trip to Castletownbere, it’s a beautiful fishing town waaaay out West Cork. Pop into MacCarthy’s Bar on Main Street for a lemonade in the snug. If you haven’t read Pete McCarthy’s hilarious bestseller McCarthy’s Bar you can purchase it here for €10. You can also purchase A Doctor’s War detailing the amazing true life story of Air Commodore Joseph Aiden MacCarthy OBE GM, an Irish Doctor serving in the Royal Air Force who was captured & interred in a Japanese POW camp. 

His daughter Adrienne still owns MacCarthy’s Bar, be sure to say Hi! Bere Island is one of the few Islands that can be accessed via car ferry, so you can bring your car over for the day to explore the Island with the stunning backdrop of the mountains of the Beara Peninsula. Just a little warning though so you won’t be caught short, there are no ATM’S or petrol stations on the Island.

Waterfall Alpaca Farm ~ Drimoleague (Alpaca my bag!)

On the hour & a half drive out to Castletownbere from Clonakilty we decided to drop into Drimoleague to visit Waterfall Alpaca Farm. You can see Alpacas, sheep, hens, donkeys & giant rabbits. Get this you can even walk an Alpaca on a leash around part of the Drimoleague Heritage Walkway! Unfortunately when we visited the Alpacas were still being trained but we most definitely will be back to bring some on a walk.

Be sure to catch up on our previous Cork escapades HERE but tell us ~ 

Have you been to West Cork? Did we miss anywhere?

Our Cork Adventures – The Stunning Sherkin Island!

Welcome back to Cork, one of our favourite counties in Ireland. I last told you about our venture to Cobh & the Titanic Experience. This week it’s time for something completely different. We didn’t have a set plan of where we wanted to visit, more of an idea of things we’d like to do on our budget friendly break in Cork a few weeks ago. My husband Colin knew that you can get a boat out to some of the islands from Baltimore harbour so we hopped in the car & headed there to see what we could do for the day.

Sherkin Island - The Boat from Baltimore Harbour

There are a couple of ferry companies operating out of Baltimore providing passage to Cape Clear, Heir Island , Sherkin Island & even out to Fastnet Rock. As we arrived we saw some people heading down the pier to a boat so we tagged along not knowing which Island they were going to. Sure isn’t that what holidays are for a bit of spontaneity every now & then, you never know what gem you might discover. Turns out we were on the Sherkin Island ferry, it only cost us €20 return for the SEVEN of us for the 10 minute crossing.

Sherkin Island ~ Family Fun

As Wi-Fi was pretty sketchy in the wilds of West Cork I didn't have a chance to research Sherkin Island so we didn't really know what to expect. As we docked, I caught sight of some ruins, which was our first port of call. It’s an ancient Franciscan friary built in the mid 1400’s, closing in 1796 when the last remaining Friar passed away. The gate is open & you are free to roam around inside or go up to the roof for amazing views. You’ll find photos inside with lots of information on the friary.

Sherkin Island ~ The Franciscan Friary

As we were walking up the road a van pulled in beside us, it was the Island rural transport scheme, now that’s service. The lady advised us that it was a 30 minute walk to the beach but there was a nicer strand just a little further on again. She offered to take us for just €2 per adult & €1 per child, before she could finish we were safely ensconced in the back of the bus. Thank God she had the forethought to give us her mobile number so we could call her to be brought back, I never would have thought of it.

Sherkin Island ~ Silver Strand

We spent a wonderful afternoon in blissful isolation on Silver Strand, the children could run to their hearts content, even having a paddle in the sea to cool off as it was a scorcher of a day. After a phone call to be picked up we started to ramble back the way we came, it’s so peaceful out there you can’t help but relax. 

Our destination was the Islander’s Rest, a 21 bedroom hotel about a 10 minute walk from the harbour. We had lunch in the bar; Colin & I ordered fish & chips while the children had a homemade pizza between them. The prices were great with our bill totalling just over €40 for drinks & lunch.

Sherkin Island ~ Islander's Rest

Our sojourn to Sherkin turned out to be one of the best days of our holiday in Cork, and perhaps one of our most peaceful in all of our family adventures so far. Next time we’re in Cork we have Cape Clear on the list. 

Have you been to Sherkin or any of the other Islands? Tell us how you got on!

Catch up on our past 
travels & find some Irish
holiday inspo HERE!

Our Cork Adventure - Cobh & The World Famous Titanic Experience!

Welcome back to our Cork Adventure, if you haven’t seen where we’ve been so far, catch up here. We're big fans of the staycation and firm believers that a holiday on home soil can hold it's own against any other destination, once you have insider travel tips to get the best of our Emerald Isle. For our Cork adventure we were ideally based in Clonakilty, staying in a 6 bedroom Clona Holiday Homes rental in Clogheen Village, find out more about them here. 

Stone Family Travel ~ Our Cork Adventure!

This week we're going to kick off our Cork Adventures, because let's be honest, it's one of the most beautiful parts of the world. First up I’ll tell you where we stayed & our overall impression. As we have a large family of 7, our best bet for a bargain is to book holiday homes rather than hotels.

Brussels & Bruges Christmas Markets On a Budget - Just Do It!

Sorry not sorry! I know it’s nearly 4 months away (113 days, not that I’m counting) but, believe or not, now is the best time to start thinking of booking your European Christmas market trip as you get the best deals in early September. Sue and I have been visiting European Christmas markets for almost 10 years now so I thought you'd like some hints, tips and a peek at some of the best we've ever been to. 

For any trip research is key, I do all my research on christmasmarkets.com. They have invaluable info on Christmas market locations, also on the hotels that are in close proximity. However, I never book through the site, I usually use trivago.ie or do a general google search for the hotels listed on christmasmarkets.com. You can also book a package trip through a travel agent but you'll pay extra for this & I prefer to keep those few sheckles for mulled wine!

Place du Marche aux Poissons, Brussels

As I said, every Christmas CherrySue and I head off to a European Christmas Market, sometimes our brother & sis in law join us from Wales and sometimes the lads come too but we make it a rule to go regardless.

Two years ago we chose Brussels and Bruges. We took an Aer Lingus flight from Dublin Airport to Brussels Airport, it’s only a short 90 minute flight.

Brussels Airport is actually 11 km northeast of Brussels so we opted for public transport and got the Express Line Bus 12 to Luxembourg stop in Brussels business district. We used the Go vending machines to purchase our tickets for the bus as they are cheaper than buying from the driver. It costs just €4 for the 30 minute journey. 

  

We stayed at Leopold Hotel on Rue Du Luxemburg, it’s a newly refurbished 4* hotel, very convenient to bus and tram stops and Midi train station. There are plenty of bars and restaurants beside the hotel. We had a garden suite which occupied two floors, it was spotless and spacious. Breakfast was included in our rate, although we did pass on the curry and chicken stew for breakfast and opted instead for something from the array of fresh pastries and cold meats.

Brussels Tram

It’s very easy to navigate your way around Brussels. You can use the tram or, like us, just walk, you can explore more and get to see hidden gems you might otherwise miss! We used Viator.com to book the Hop-on hop-off tour bus before we went (€23pp). This is the best way to see a city in a short timeframe & on a budget. You can exchange your voucher for a ticket at any stop on the route, no need to go to the office.

There are two routes and they both depart from Central Station. We got to visit the Grand Place, Chocolate Museum, Beer Museum and the European Parliament among many other attractions.

                                               

                                                                                                              Atomium        

Our favourite meal was at the Atomium, a steel structure of spheres and tubes. Each of the spheres house exhibitions and the top sphere is a two storey restaurant with an amazing panoramic view of the City. 

Admission is €11 for adults and from €6 for children over 6 years.They have deals on set gourmet menus for lunch, while it can be quite expensive for dinner. If you find yourself there after dark there is an amazing laser light show each night.

Brussels Christmas Market Stall

Christmas markets typically run from late November to early January and the best place to find out exact information & maps before you go is on the trusty christmasmarkets.com. Grand Place is where the Town Hall is beautifully lit and one of many Christmas markets takes place. Wooden chalets are transformed into Christmas stalls selling homemade gift items such as traditional wooden decorations and sweets. The sweet aromas of cinnamon and mulled wine at the markets are mouth watering.

Brussels Christmas Market Stall Eile

While you will find many of the stalls replicated throughout the market, keep your eye on the prices as they can vary from one side of the market to the other!  After dark the sights and sounds are simply magical as the stalls light up and there is a big wheel for spectacular views. There is also a giant outdoor ice skating rink at place du Marche aux Poissons. Markets usually open till 9pm on week days and 10pm at weekends.      

                                                Bruges Train Station

We caught one of the frequent trains from Midi train station for the hour long scenic journey to Bruges. We went on the weekend so it was only €13.80 return but during the week it’s more expensive at €25 return. 

From Brugge train station it’s only a 10 minute walk to Bruges Markt Square or catch a bus for only €2. This is where the main Christmas market and ice rink are located. This is also where the famous scenes from “In Bruges” were filmed and you can climb the town’s musical bell tower of the Belfort (Belfry). 

                                                Markt Square, Bruges

                                                Chocolate Shop, Bruges

Bruges has maintained many of its medieval buildings so the architecture is a beautiful mix of contemporary and medieval.  Every corner we turned we found a little gem along with the many delicious chocolate shops! There really is no need to stray too far from Markt Square as it has all you need to see and do for the day. We had to get out of the cold and spent a glorious couple of hours having a beer and people watching. 

We sat in the window of one of the many restaurants with a view of the Belfort and market. When we tried to order a large beer they refused to serve us & offered a small beer instead, this was soon remedied when we told him we were Irish! Restaurants tend to close early so we had an early and reasonably priced dinner (total bill €25) before our train back to Brussels. 

Big Beer time! Markt Square, Bruges

I’ve spent the last few days researching our next Christmas market trip & we’ve chosen Cologne in Germany for this years festive fix. I currently have it priced at €160pp for flights & 2 nights B&B in a 4* hotel with spa & pool! 

Have you ever been? Any tips on where to go or what to see? 

The Michael Collins Unofficial Trail In The Unofficial Capital - Cork

Our 6 year old son Seamus is Michael Collins mad, he simply loves him & is eager for any & all information about the man that he can get. Last Christmas while trying to explain to him about people not believing in the same God nor believing in Christmas he piped up that he only believes in three: Michael Collins, God & Johnny Cash are his Holy Trinity!!

I met my husband while we were both serving in the 7^th Field Artillery Regiment in McKee Barracks way back in 1997. We are both interested in Irish military history, especially the 1916 Rising so that might explain where he first got to learn of Michael Collins.

Earlier this year we watched a documentary on RTE, aired as part of the Great Irish Journeys series. John Creedon retraced the Big Fella’s last 24 hours in Cork. Seamus was so wowed by this that we decided we had to do it ourselves to show him first hand.

Celtic Ross Hotel, Rosscarbery West Cork

We stayed in a fabulous family run 3* hotel in West Cork on the Wild Atlantic Way. This was an ideal base for visiting Clonakilty & further afield. We found out that Michael Collins’ parents are buried in the graveyard that’s just behind the hotel, so our trail started earlier than we had expected. 

My daughters decided that we should visit & bring some flowers. The Celtic Ross is brilliant for children as they have a pool & kids club to keep the little ones entertained. Druid’s restaurant serves fresh local produce, specialising in seafood, you can dine overlooking Rosscarbery bay. They offer rates from as little as €31.50pp B&B off season. Children (4-12 yrs) are €12 each B&B.

Our Little Fella with the Big Fella, Clonakilty, West Cork

Michael Collins attended school in & lived in Clonakilty for a couple of years. The house is currently undergoing renovations so you can’t get in at the moment but there is a large statue of Collins in the town centre. 

Tim & Dolores Crowley opened a heritage centre dedicated to Collins on their farm in 2000. They now run trails from the Michael Collins Centre in Castleview Clonakilty. Unfortunately it was not open when we were passing so we will be back for that! We have heard that it’s well worth a visit. For bookings or inquiries call 023 8846107.

Woodfield, Sam’s Cross, West Cork

Woodfield is the birthplace of Michael Collins, it’s hard to find but we managed! Coming from Clonakilty out to Lisavaird go through the village & take the first right heading south & you’ll see a brown tourist signpost directing you. 

The house itself is no longer standing as it was burned by the British Crown Forces in 1921. Although you can still see its footprint & the chimney tops. The barns at the back, into which family moved when the house was burned down, are still standing. It’s such a peaceful & tranquil place I can see why he loved it so much.

Blackcurrant & Tayto all round! Four All's, Sam’s Cross, West Cork

On that faithful day August 22^nd 1922 Michael Collins & his men met with his family in the Four All’s, which was owned by his uncle Jeremiah Collins.  It’s a stones throw from his birthplace. 

If you make it to Woodfield be sure to pop into the Four All's as you are always assured of a warm welcome. While we were there Seamus wanted to see the old sign that hung over the door when Michael last visited as he had seen John Creedon with it. The barman was lovely & brought us out to the back of the bar to show us.

On the way back to our hotel that evening we took a trek out to Beál na mBláth but there was torrential rain so we couldn't get out for any pictures. 

It was difficult to find but the best way is to head there from the Macroom – Cork road. There is a monument at the side of the road & it’s a plenty big road to pull in.

The Imperial Hotel, South Mall, Cork City

Michael Collins spent his last night in the Imperial Hotel in Cork, it’s very sad to see that the only reminder is a painting & small plaque on the wall in the lobby. The suite that he slept in has since been remodelled into three bedrooms so you can’t see where he slept. 

We had stayed in the Imperial Hotel without the children previously & once you can find your room it’s lovely! The thermal suite is amazing & we spent hours there.

Arthur Mayne’s, Pembroke Street, Cork

If you happen to find yourself in Cork City I can’t recommend enough the food (especially the spiced beef sandwich) in Arthur Mayne’s just beside the Imperial Hotel. 

It’s a gorgeous wine bar with a huge suntrap of a beer garden out the back. Oh & they are one of only a handful of places in Cork that open for Sunday brunch (!). They have recently opened a sister bar in Donnybrook, Dublin. We haven’t had a chance to visit yet but the food will be every bit as tasty their Chef has relocated to Dublin.

Collins Barracks, Cork City

I didn't know this but there is a museum in Collins Barracks with a room dedicated to Michael Collins. Guess it’s handy having a hubby in the know! They have a lot of Michael Collins’ personal belongings such as his leather overcoat, his pistols & his medal from the War of Independence. 

Also the first makeshift cross that was erected at the ambush site in Beál na mBláth. The Big Fella’s writing bureau is also there, I can only imagine the letters he would be writing today, if he was still with us. The curator Jim Horgan keeps everything in pristine condition. The museum is open to the public 10am- 1pm Monday, Wednesday & Friday, entry is free of charge. 

Munster Arms Hotel (formerly Lees Hotel) Bandon, Co Cork

Last stop on our Michael Collins trail is the Munster Arms Hotel in Bandon, this was also Michael Collins’ last stop as he came here to attend a meeting & rally the local Free State Troops before heading back to Cork City via Beál na mBláth. At this stage most of the bridges & roads in the area were either blown or blocked by the IRA. 

It’s here, in the lobby that hangs the last known photograph of General Michael Collins. Yes, Seamus gives the thumbs up in every photo!

Glasnevin Cemetery, Dublin

We recently attended a commemoration in Glasnevin Cemetery for Arthur Griffith & Michael Collins. The only reason I include this is that Sliabh na mBan, the 1920 Rolls Royce armoured car, was also in attendance. 

It was part of Michael Collins’ motorcade while visiting Cork in 1922 & was used to transport his wounded body after the ambush at Beál na mBláth on August 22^nd. 

Sliabh na mBan has been lovingly restored inside & out including the .303 Vickers water cooled machine gun by the skilled craftsmen in the Irish Defence Forces Cavalry Corps. 

Seamus loves visiting Sliabh na mBan in her home at the military museum in the Curragh, Co Kildare. Opening hours Mon- Wed 10am-1pm & 3pm-5pm Thurs 2pm-8pm Sun 2pm-5pm admission is free of charge as is parking.

Tell us, have you been to any of the Michael Collins spots in Cork? Got a little one that's as interested in history as our Seamus?